When Sir Winston Churchill visited Uganda in 1907, he titled it the “Pearl of Africa”. This was due to the magnificent scenery and wildlife of the country, combined with the friendly natives. He explained that the beauty could only be described as a pearl, and proclaimed the country as “paradise on earth” in his 1908 book ‘My African Journey’.
This week, I have experienced a true mixture of Ugandan and Irish culture; as the Irish Ambassador for Uganda Kevin Kelly described, the Pearl and Emerald coming together to celebrate. It is a fantastic experience to live in an entirely different culture such as that found in Uganda, but this week I really enjoyed reacquainting myself with the Irish culture. Coincidentally, the African and Irish events and celebrations of this week alternated, so I was able experience each culture in turn. This provided a fantastic opportunity to compare the two and consider the similarities and differences between them.
On Wednesday night, Rachel and I attended a concert at Calvary Chapel Kampala with several friends. Although the main act was a Texan band called The Response, for me the highlight was seeing the Ugandan branch of the African Children’s Choir. I have previously seen the ACC twice in Belfast, but it seemed extra special to see the children performing in their home country, to hundreds of people who actually understood what they were singing! The children were followed by One Voice, a group which is made up of former members of the African Children’s Choir, and a well-known local pastor. The one thing which really stood out to me was how much the audience participated in the concert; where at home we would clap, cheer and sit back to appreciate the performances, Ugandans will sing and dance throughout, not at all bothered by others looking at them. I feel like I can’t really explain how vigorous this dancing was; we actually had to move away a distance in fear of losing an eye or a limb. Rachel described it as a mosh-pit of African hips, which I think is a fairly apt description!
Thursday being Saint Patrick’s Day, all Irish citizens were invited to an evening reception at the Irish Ambassador’s house. There were around 400 people there, ranging from statesmen to UN workers to students. It was a very surreal experience to be surrounded by so many Irish and Northern Irish accents when you’ve spent several weeks trying to interpret Ugandan English! With the Irish band The Waterboys, Guiness flowing and Irish food (including wheaten bread!) you could have believed you were at home - especially since it had been ‘bucketing down’ with rain all day! Many of the citizens already knew each other, having lived in Uganda for several years, but everyone was so friendly and welcoming to Rachel and I, enquiring how long we had been here and how we were enjoying the country.
Since school was closed on Thursday, I spent Friday morning teaching my P3 class about Ireland. First I read them the story of Saint Patrick, which they thoroughly enjoyed. Sometimes I forget that something as simple as a story, which we use so often in Northern Ireland, can bring so much joy to the children here. Then we had a class discussion on...wait for it...potatoes. While I realise that this sounds like a completely ludicrous topic for circle time, Ugandans mainly eat roast potatoes which they refer to as ‘Irish potatoes.’ However, very few people are able to make the link between ‘Irish’ meaning ‘from Ireland’, and it was quite amusing to finally see the penny drop. I explained that potatoes are our main crop, and described some of the different ways in which they are used; the children found the idea of potato bread particularly hilarious. We then discussed some other common Irish food and drink; Guiness was well-known and the children actually cheered when it was mentioned, while the idea of traybakes mystified them. Luckily, the next part of the lesson clarified this idea as we made Fifteens together. I was a little apprehensive about how successful this would be; while I adore my class they are extremely excitable, and this lesson had the potential to turn disasterous. However, they behaved like angels and I was so proud of them. They loved the opportunity to get involved in breaking up and mixing ingredients, and sampling the finished product. Two boys even copied down the recipe to take home for their mothers! Mark Kurlanksky (2002) writes that, “Food is a central activity of mankind and one of the single most significant trademarks of a culture”, and I am glad that I was able to share this part of Irish culture with my class.
Making Fifteens with P3Y |
After school on Friday we headed to Lugogo Rugby Club, where there was a series of matches between English and Irish citizens in football, rugby and Gaelic football. Despite even more rain, it was a great afternoon with some of the people we had met at the ambassador’s the evening before – it was also the first time I had ever watched a Gaelic football match – I’m not just learning about African culture here in Uganda!
Sue, Brenda and Ritah with me and Rachel |
Friday night was a brand-new African experience for me, celebrating Brenda’s 21st birthday. Her best friend had planned a surprise party at a popular restaurant, beginning at 7pm. Rachel and I had only twenty minutes to get ready (with no water or electricity!) and arrived at 7:15pm, panicking that we had missed the surprise. We walked into the restaurant to discover that we were the first to arrive; clearly we forgot to go on African time. The next guests arrived at 8:30pm, while the birthday girl didn’t show up until almost 9:30! After the meal we headed to a karaoke bar, where Rachel and I brought back ‘Stran Panto’ memories by singing Queen’s ‘Somebody to Love.’ This was my first experience of performing karaoke in a bar... and I am truly thankful that no one at home will ever see it! We then headed to a bar called Fat Boyz, which played only Ugandan hiphop and RnB hits. While many Africans laugh at white people attempting to dance, both Rachel and I commented that their dancing would not have been out of place at the Back to School Bop in Stran; everyone stood in a circle, someone started a move and everyone else copied for a while until a new move was introduced. However, there was also some ‘African’ dancing, and Rachel and I were not allowed to go home until we attempted it. Understandably, this caused much hilarity all round... I think we need a little more practice.
Saturday night was the biggest night of the year for the Irish Society in Uganda; the Saint Patrick’s Ball. Knowing only two other people, Rachel and I were a little nervous before we arrived. We needn’t have worried; just as at the ambassador’s reception, everyone was extremely sociable and friendly. After one of the best meals I’ve eaten in my life, traditional Irish musicians and dancers performed before the dancefloor filled with people of all ages. Despite never having danced a jig in my life, Rachel and I pinned our arms by our sides and skipped around the dancefloor, even managing to convince a Spanish guest that we were actually Irish dancers. As the night wore on the party got crazier and crazier, with some guests dancing on tables and an England vs Ireland tug-o-war with the red carpet. Eventually Rachel and I arrived home at 5am, though the party was still in full swing when we left. The whole evening reminded me of some of my favourite aspects of home; the food, the familiar accents and the Irish ability to celebrate in style!
I would not have believed it if you had told me a year ago that I would spend in just one day I would make Fifteens with a roomful of African children, followed by watching football, rugby and Gaelic then celebrating an African friend’s birthday. Mixing these two cultures has reminded me of how much I appreciate my home culture, as well as becoming more familiar with Ugandan life.